Which drains we clear
Branch lines from bathroom basins and tubs are usually 1¼ to 1½ inch pipe, kitchen lines run 1½ to 2 inch, and the main building drain under the basement slab is 3 or 4 inch. Each needs a different cable head. Pushing a big sectional machine through a small trap arm tears fittings; poking a hand auger down a main does nothing useful. We match the tool to the pipe before anything goes in.
How a typical call goes
- Ask where it backs up. One fixture means a branch clog. Water rising in the floor drain when the washer pumps out points at the main.
- Open the nearest access. A trap, a cleanout plug or the toilet flange gives the cable the shortest route.
- Run and retrieve. We feed the cable until it bites, work through the clog, then pull back what it grabs so you can see the hair, grease or wipes.
- Flush and test. Hot water runs for several minutes while we listen for gurgling and watch the floor drain.
- Talk next steps. If the clog was roots or a sag, a camera look is the honest next move.
What we usually find
Bathroom lines are mostly hair bound with soap scum. Kitchen lines are grease that has cooled and hardened into a lining, often with coffee grounds packed into it. Mains collect flushable wipes, paper towel and, on older lots with mature maples and willows, roots coming through clay or cast-iron joints.
Chemical openers rarely reach the real clog and can soften older plastic traps. If you have already poured some in, tell us before we open the trap so nobody gets splashed.
Keeping it clear afterwards
Strainers in every tub and shower, a scraper habit for greasy pans, and a kettle of hot water poured into the kitchen sink every month or so go a long way. For homes that see the same main backup every year, scheduled maintenance clearing is cheaper than emergency calls. See our hydro-jetting and camera inspection pages for when cabling is not enough.
What we open up on this job
| Part | Where we find it | What we do |
|---|---|---|
| Bath basin trap arm | 1¼ in. ABS or chromed brass | Pull the trap, hand-auger the arm, hair hook |
| Kitchen branch | 1½ in. ABS, older homes 1½ in. copper DWV | Small sectional cable, grease scrape, flush hot |
| Basement floor drain | 3 in. trap into the building drain | Clear the trap, check the trap primer or prime it |
| Main building drain | 4 in. under the slab to the cleanout | Sectional machine through the cleanout, then camera |
Signs it is time to call
- Water sits in the basin for a minute before it goes
- Gurgling in the tub when the toilet flushes
- A sour or sewer smell rising from a drain
- Puddle at the floor drain on laundry day
- Basin and tub both sluggish
On the truck for this one
- Cup and flange plungers
- ¼ in. hand auger
- Drum machine with ⅜ in. cable
- Sectional machine for 3–4 in. lines
- Drop cloths and a wet vac
Quick answers
Do you charge extra if the clog is in the main?
Main lines take larger equipment and more time than a basin trap, so they are quoted differently. We explain the difference on the phone before we come.
Should I plunge first?
A cup plunger on a sink or tub with the overflow covered is fine. Stop if water rises elsewhere in the house; that points to a main blockage.